I want to integrate also on Monday the new J519 and i want to be sure that i understand correctly.

You are saying that the modifications are:

ON T32C connector:

PIN3 swap with PIN 4

PIN14 swap with PIN 15

this means that side flasher lamps and side lights are switching places on each side of the vehicle (left and right).

T12B PIN9 ---bridged--->>> T32C PIN14

T12B PIN10---bridged--->>> T32C PIN3

This pins are bridged and not swaped.

The diagram below is correct:

Ok but you are calling the T32b grey connector with the wrong name see here

Onboard supply control unit -J519

Pin connectors:

A=10 pin connector Black = T10a

B=12 pin connector Black = T12a

C=32 pin connector Grey = T32b

If you see on every diagram relating the Headlights the T32C doesn't exist or better it is the C position on the previous picture but its name is T32b

And about the direction of the the T32b I always mean the exact pin number that you can see on the connector, doesn't matter from what direction you are looking it because you have to read the number written. If you observe these rules you will have no surprises.

http://audiforum.us/attachments/immagineif-1-png.1458/

If anyone is having trouble with the J519 installation, PM me or send me an e-mail. I know of an alternate plug-and-play installation method that is MUCH EASIER to install.

Sorry but why don't you share it ?

Usually here the informations are shared or do you wanna make money with your method?

They offered me the so called "alternate solution" by email at 1,000 USD.

I might look stupid but i paid for the new J519 unit in Germany 170 Euro + shipping.

To be onest he said "much easier to install" but forgot to mention that is 4 times more expensive. )

Anyway even by email they did not mention what exactly is the "easy to install alternate solution to J519" but i assume is the resistor solution that i also tried with some readymade wiring.

I am not selling this item myself. I own the kit, and it is plug-and-play. It is NOT resistors. This is a set of custom made adapter cables with a built-in ECU in each cable that programs the Audi for plug-and-play installation. All you do is remove your old headlights, plug in the adapter cables to your existing wiring, and plug the other end of the cables into your new headlights, and presto...you now have working 2010 LED Headlights, without the need for programming or spicing wires or anything technical. This is as easy as it gets! The reason the pricing was higher for you, is because you are located in Italy. These kits normally sell for $800 USD. That is how much I paid for mine. I would post a picture on here, but I am not sure how. These are very nice cables with OEM Audi connectors on the ends and a pre-programmed ECU in the middle. Also, if one would like to upgrade from Halogen headlights to 2010 LED Tri-Xenon headlights, they sell cables for that too! They custom make every cable for each order they receive. They also make adapter cables + ECU for the 2010 LED Taillights and LED turn signals, that again, require no spicing, programming, or anything extra. All of their kits are strictly plug-and-play, and in my eyes that is worth the extra money. Knowing that if I ever wanted to sell my 2007 Q7 and remove the 2010 LED headlights and reinstall my 2007 headlights, I would only have to unplug the cables and plug my old headlights back in, and then I could sell the 2010 LED headlights separately and make more money. I just think it is a great idea and I wanted to let everyone know that you do not have to void your warranty with code changes to make this conversion work. Sorry for the misunderstanding Neo! I should have clarified that before I told you to e-mail them.

a4ss4abt or Neo is there an easier solution for installing the LED turn signal that will fix the 30 sec flashing of the led and get around the bulb test. Sounds like if I install the new contol unit will require some spicing wires and technicaI background that is beyond me. Was orgianlly looking for V12 LED DRLs, wiring harness and the ECU but can't seem to find those anywhere anymore. Did see the V12 LED DRLS on the a few Germany Forums for a while but not lately. So for now just looking to install the led turn signals only . Thanks!!

new minor issue

I was driving today outside the city in the dark and i noticed two minor issues:

1. When i switch to HIGH BEAM everything is OK, but when i go back to LOW BEAM the headlight remains on HIGH BEAM. The only way to get back to LOW BEAM is by flashing the lights. Is this a coding issue? My car does not have HIGH BEAM ASSIST. I think the J519 works like it should if the High Beam Assist was installed. Any ideas?

2. When i drive off-road, i noticed that the lights are flickering. It seams that the light reflector inside the headlight is not very well attached and on the bumpy roads it vibrates which cause the flickering effect. In my case it is more visible on the left headlight. I noticed it while driving. Tomorrow i will have somebody else driving and i will stay outside to see if it is visible or annoying for other drivers.

got the complete LEDs kit from Germany with plug/play module, waiting for the kit. Prices are;

Headlight plug and play module only Euro250 (USD332)

Taillight and plug/play module complete Euro670 (USD891)

Turn signal and plug/play module complete Euro400 (USD532)

Complete with installation manual with pictures illustrations.

Bought the LED headlight thru local Audi dealer Euro700 (USD931)

The price are without 19% European VAT and shipping cost.

Contact:

Patryk Burzacki

WibuTec - Fahrzeugtechnik & Car- Entertainment

Email: P.burzacki@wibutec.de

I can confirm I also have the issue number 1. Unfortunately this is due by the old Switch that we have in our cars. IN FACT it has been replaced with a new one on the 2010 facelift. It is really a minor problem for me anyway I would understand if it is possible to change only the steering Switch.;-)

turn signal switch

The turn signal switch i have in my car is 4E0 953 513 K.

It seams it was replaced in 06/2009 with a new version 4E0 953 513 G.

In my car when i push the switch to change to HIGH BEAM it remains pushed, with the new one it seams that it returns to the middle (neutral) position. The HIGH/LOW beam switch operates now in pulses, thats why in my case i can return to LOW BEAM only by flashing.

I checked with my German Audi Dealer and the new switch is 49.50 Euro.

I already ordered it. The ugly part is the replacement procedure which i think requires taking out the entire steering wheel

Issue 2 i solved already. My left headlight vibrate inside the mount. I solved it by inserting a small piece of rubber between the headlight and the mounting. I could not see any problem with the headlight or the mounting, on the right side everything is ok, so i guess it is a manufacturing defect of the headlight or the mounting. It is too minor to replace both of them so for the moment the rubber does the job of keeping the headlight firm in the mounting.

Yes the new Switch for turn signals, main and dip beam, headlight flasher and parking light is the 4E0 953 513 G 4PK for vehicles without Lane change assist or 4E0 953 513 J 4PK for vehicles with LCH.

For a correct installation you have to remove the Steering Wheel, the Airbag and the S/C ring so when finished you will need to make a STEERING-ANGLE SENSOR CALIBRATION with the help of VCDS.

Honestly I prefer to change the Combi Switch on the left dash panel with the new cromed model 4F1 941 531 E 5PR and eventually after I will think to the Steering Switch.

4F1 941 531 E 5PR is not very expensive 65 Euro + VAT 19%.

All together the 2 switches are about 120 Euro.

Alternate solution for turn signal sporadic flash problem

I installed today a complete facelift on another Q7-3.0TDI-2007.

I decided not to replace the J519 controller instead i played with some resisitors and capacitors in order to supress the 5V bulb cold test that the old J519 unit is sending every 30 seconds and cause the turn signal leds to flash briefly.

I found that a warning canceler that comes usually with an aftermarket xenon kit does the job perfectly.

This device connected between the J519 and the turn signal leds, cancels the sporadic flash and does not cause any errors on the FIS.

The price here in Romania for 2 units like this is about 50 Euro (VAT included) which is about 1/4 of the new J519 price.

I found many models on ebay at even smaller prices.

Here are some pictures of the unit that i took during installation.

Sorry for the quality but i used my iphone.

Well done and certainly he doesn't need to change the steering Switch for High Beam so another little amount of money saved.

Usually I don't support other solution than the original but honestly here you can obtain the final result with less work and less money.

J519 coding question

In the new setup, when "Leaving Home" function is active and i unlock the car the LEDs in the headlight are ON and the front FOG lights are also ON.

Due to the fact that FOG lights are normal H7 bulbs the light is yellow and is a huge difference compared to the bright white light of the headlight's LED.

I think that are 3 ways of solving this issue and make the car look amazing at a press of a button on the remote control.

1. To adapt a channel on the J519 to turn on only the LEDs when the car is unlocked. If anybody has an idea about which channel must be adapted or if it is even possible i kindly ask for advice.

2. To change the H7 bulbs with H7 LED but then i will have to install 2 "Warning Cancelers" to solve the sporadic flash problem and the permanent error on the FIS.

3. To install an aftermarket xenon kit for fog lamps.

Personally i dont like options 2 and 3 as the white light during fog driving conditions is not helping at all. So if i will choose option no.2 or 3 i will have a "cool" look but ZERO efficiency of the fog lights.

So, for the moment i am investigating option 1.

Does anybody have any idea about this?

Thanks for your help.

Plug and play module pictures. ;-)

I have some questions:

1.How much you paid for the "plug&play" module for the tail lights?

2.Did you install it? The box looks quite big. Where do you plan to hide it?

3.The box for the tail lights is only a flash supressor (CAN 5 volts bulb test)? The tail lights are lighting as it should be?

- do not have plug/play module price for taillight, got complete with LED taillight at Euro670 (w/o VAT)

- yes, took some time for mechanic to figure out the connection on luggage compartment relay and fuse carrier. The green box is about 4.5" x 3", managed to stick it on inside of luggage compartment.

- Not sure, but mechanic manage to make it works.

I don't want to disappoint you but the original route is far more cheaper.

The Comfort module that powers the tail lights is about 170 Euro.

For the front headlights there are 2 options. Changing the J519 unit which cost about 190 Euros and without changing it and adding the "warning cancelers" which cost about 50 Euros.

The rest is just moving some wires inside a connector.

670 Euros for the "plug&play" kit is way to much.

For my facelift i choose to buy only the genuine components and even now i have to change the turn-signal switch to match the new J519, the total price for the electrical part is below 500 Euro.

Hi, Euro670 include LEDs light. I agree for you. It an expensive solution, but for people like me whom don't know much about electronics and DIY, it is a good option for me.

Turn signal switch.

I replaced this weekend the turn signal switch, and with the new one 4E0 953 513 G 4PK i can confirm everything works great.

Now the low/high beam switch is working normal.

There was no coding necessary but the installation requires dismantling the steering wheel, the steering angle sensor, the cruise control switch and the wipers switch.

So, for future reference if you change the J519 controller it is mandatory to replace the turn signal switch.

New switch

Done yesterday the substitution also on my Q7 of the low-high beam and turn signals Switch.

As preview no problems and at the end only done few meters just to have canceled the ESP lamp on the cluster.

Here the picture of the new switch:

Thanks for the information, have put today LED DRL in Audi Q7 2007. To J519 it was not necessary to pull wires, it is necessary to change in it places of wire Т12b/10 and T10a/6, T12b/9 and T10a/1, to move wires from T32b/4 in T10/8, from T32b/15 in T10/2, distributing in lanterns - 1 - ground, 2 - the former wire of dimensions in a lantern, 3 - the former wire turn lamp in a lantern

I don't understand what is the lantern? Anyway you have been obliged to retry the old turn signal wires from the bumber to the headlights otherwise no DRL LED working;-)

Led turn signals bulb error

Hello,

First post here. I'm really impressed with the info that is shared here. I've finally started facelifting my Q7 too.

But I'm taking the slow route. First the led turn signals.

I have installed a warning canceler as seen here done by Neo (great tip) but every time I turn either way (switch turn signal on), I get a broken bulb error in the mmi display. The error dissapears after a few seconds. Anyone has any idea what I'm doing wrong? Lights work fine, no flashing etc... Just the bulb error. Help is very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

If you have to run only the led turn signal you can do it without warning cancelers.

Just doing a bridge on the J519.

As previously described on this thread, there are some pins where the actual turn signals on the side mirrors (the only LED drived by the old J519 units)are connected, so, if you connect by bridging your new front turn s. pins(T12B-9 and T12B-10) with the mirrors ones(I believe T32C- 3 and T32C-14) you will not need the warning cancelers.

In reality you probably found some cancelers not so fast enough to evitate the lamp alarm on the DIS but as you know I'm contrary to these tricks and infact I've changed the J519 and probably in the future I will change also the doors Control units just to correctly drive also the mirrors turn signal.

One more question though.

I just inspected the J519 unit, and it is very well hidden under the dash.

How can I best make these bridges, simply make a new connection between the wires that are in the connectors, or should I remove the T12B-9 and T12B-10 wires from the connector, and attach them to the T32C- 3 and T32C-14 wires?

Sorry for bugging you even more, but I would hate to mess things up.

You can work directly on the wires before the connectors by soldiering the new wires at a right lenght. It's just difficult because you cannot put the loom on the desk... you will have to work under the dash ;-)

I took the J519 out, dismantle it on the desk and made the bridges by soldering wires directly on the printed circuit board.

In this way you dont have to work under the dash, were the access is very difficult and cut some color coded wires that you might not see corectly.

Hope it helps.

PS: To take out the J519 is quite easy as it has only 2 nuts.

Take out the connectors 1,2 and 3.

Remove the nuts (ARROWS in the picture below).

Hello again. I am puzzled of what I am doing wrong.

I connected the pins inside the j519 unit. Removed the warning canceler. The turn lights are working, but I still get the broken bulb error, and also I get the " check" flash every 15 seconds.

What am I doing wrong?

Please, advice is very much wanted!

Thank you in advance.

Edit: did some more testing, and the bulb error is mysteriously gone now, good. But I still get the flash every 15 seconds.....

On which bulbs do you get the error? On the turn lights?

If you keep the old J519 unit, you have to keep the warning cancelers as this is the only way to supress the "flashing" (bulb cold test).

Please be aware that modifications inside the J519 are different in the new unit compared to the old one.

Let us know your setup and i am sure we can advice you to solve the problems.

Hi,

Here are 2 pictures of what I have done.

the J519 is coded 4F0 910 279 K

connected 12 pin nr 10 to 32 pin nr 3

connected 12 pin nr 9 to 32 pin nr 14

The left mirror turn leds are constantly on

the front turn leds generate a bulb error every time they are used. The error dissappeares after several seconds.

I see that the pins are differently located on the printboard for the various J519 units, but I assume the pins are in all versions, assigned to the same lamps, correct? or do the different units also use different pins for the lamps?

Hi, you did it wrong.

You kept the original J519 unit so the modifications are according to the schematic bellow:

After you do the modifications you have to install warning cancellers on the turn signal leds, and modify the coding to "WITH LED DRL" and you are done.

The new J519 has a different pinout. Stay with the diagram above and you will be OK.

Hello Neo,

thank you again.

The problem continues nevertheless...

I coded the 09 unit, with 0015121

but it only makes the unused side lights light up with the drl now.

The Led turn signals still give me an error.

Bulb error in the DIS and via Error codes:

Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 4F0-910-279.lbl

Control Module Part Number: 4F0 910 279 K HW: 4F0 907 279

Component and/or Version: ILM Fahrer H17 0240

Software Coding: 0012121

Work Shop Code: WSC 31414 790 00001

Additional Info: 4L1910113 Wischer AU716 H11 0030 4E0910557A REGENLICHTSENSORH12 0090

2 Faults Found:

01493 - Bulb for Blinkers; Front Left (M5)

006 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 00100110

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 1

Reset counter: 15

Mileage: 74704 km

Time Indication: 0

Date: 2010.05.19

Time: 19:17:00

01497 - Bulb for Blinkers; Front Right (M7)

006 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 00100110

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 1

Reset counter: 15

Mileage: 74704 km

Time Indication: 0

Date: 2010.05.19

Time: 19:17:00

So there is some sort of unwanted connection making short circuit.

No idea What I am doing wrong.

OK, so lets start over.

1. make the modifications inside the J519 according to the schematic in my previous post;

2. inside the headlight connector move the wire from PIN 12 to PIN 10;

3. run the "+" wire from the old side lights (in the bumper) to the headlight connector on PIN 12;

4. the turn signal wire remains unmodified except the connector housing which is now 2 pins;

5. connect the warning cancelers in parallel with each turn signal;

6. make the coding on the J519 unit. your new coding has to be : 0015121;

7. erase any error you might have on the 09-Centr. Elect. controller;

Neo, thank you so much for your patience. I was a bit confused by earlier replies to my post that I would "only" have to make 2 bridges.

I now understand that I have to go all the way, even if I only want the led indicators.

Please tell me what you want to fit exactly?

I thought you will fit the new LED turn signals and also the new LED Headlights.

The steps i described are for the whole thing.

If you want to fit just JUST the LED TURN SIGNALS the bridges inside the J519 are not required at all.In this case you will "loose" the side lights. Making the bridges will result in having the DRL inside the Headlight to be always ON when the light switch is ON or AUTO. Also the coding is not necessary if you keep the old headlights.

Let me explain what exactly happens during the facelift upgrade.

In the old setup (pre-facelift) you have the following circuits:

Turn Signal

DRL (Halogen Bulb inside headlight)

Side Light (inside bumper)

Bi-XENON for HIGH/LOW beams

In the new setup (facelift) you have the following circuits:

Turn Signal

DRL (LED inside Headlights)

Bi-Xenon for HIGH/LOW beams

As you can see in the facelift setup there are only 3 circuits because Audi uses now the DRL LED inside the headlights for 2 purposes:

LED inside Headlights at 100% = DRL

Led inside Headlights at 50% = Side Light

In the old setup the circuit for sidelights is going to the bumper now has to go to the headlight. Thats why you have to run the wire.

The bridge inside the J519 does exactly this. Makes 3 circuits out of 4 in order to "fool" the J519 it has all 4 of them and not to trigger any error.

The LED turn signals are straight forward as they dont require any special modification. The problem is that J519 is coded for bulb turn signals and will send a 5V every 30 seconds to test the bulb which will make the LED to flash briefly . This testing can not be canceled with software coding so to get rid of it there are only 2 options:

1. Replace the J519 with the new version which is aware of the LED turn signals and does not perform bulb testing anymore;

2. Install a warning canceler which will "kill" the 5V test before reaching the LED turn signal.

Hi neo,

I only want to do the led turn signals for now.

I have made the bridge, which is nice, because It removes the error for the missing side lights. The led turn signals still give this "short to plus" error, which is not related to the bridge, correct?

Could it be that my cancelers are of a wrong voltage?

If you remove the cancelers and leave the led turn signals as they are, you still have the error?

Without cancelers they should work OK without any error but with short flashes every 30 seconds or so.

I used successfully "warning cancelers" type C2 as in the picture below:

Very very sorry henkerdehenk I gave you the wrong information.

:---(

Everything is born from my reasoning:

If LED turn signals on the mirrors worked well on the old J519 main LED turn signals should do the same if connected on the same output;-)

But then I gave you the Pin assignement of the new J519 instead of the right one that I'm unable to find also now:evil:

I didn't consider that installing the new Turn S. you would have the lamp error on the side-lights too.

@neo

Do you have the right pin assignement for 3 connectors on the old J519?

Connector A (10-pin)

Pin 1: Daylight driving light front right

Pin 2: Main beam right

Pin 3: Fog light front right

Pin 4: Dipped beam right

Pin 5: Terminal 38 right

Pin 6: Daylight driving light front left

Pin 7: Fog light front left

Pin 8: Main beam left

Pin 9: Terminal 31 Power

Pin 10: Dipped beam left

Connector B (12-pin)

Pin 1: Terminal 58 gate

Pin 2: Steering column adjuster switch

Pin 3: Vacant

Pin 4: Terminal 31 electronics

Pin 5: Washer pump front for rear intermittent

Pin 6: Steering column height adjustment

Pin 7: Washer pump rear for rear wipe/wash

Pin 8: Steering column down adjustment

Pin 9: Front right turn signal

Pin 10: Front left turn signal

Pin 11: Terminal 38 Power

Pin 12: Terminal 38 left

Connector C (32-pin)

Pin 1: Front right footwell

Pin 2: Front left footwell

Pin 3: Side flasher left

Pin 4: Side marker lamp (USA)/side light left

Pin 5: Vacant

Pin 6: Main beam shutter left

Pin 7: Rotary light switch Off

Pin 8: Rate action 1 digital terminal 30

Pin 9: Reversing light switch

Pin 10: Vacant

Pin 11: Rate action 3 analog

Pin 12: Headlight washer system relay

Pin 13: Rotary light switch dipped beam/automatic driving lights

Pin 14: Side flasher right

Pin 15: Side marker lamp (USA)/side light right

Pin 16: Main beam shutter right

Pin 17: Horn relay

Pin 18: CAN high

Pin 19: CAN low

Pin 20: Hazard warning lights button LED

Pin 21: Anti-theft alarm/bonnet contact switch

Pin 22: Hazard warning lights button

Pin 23: Rotary light switch, side lights

Pin 24: Vacant

Pin 25: Supply Hall sender height

Pin 26: Vacant

Pin 27: LIN2

Pin 28: LIN1 (Wipe angle control/ rain and light sensor)

Pin 29: Rotary light switch, fog light/fog tail light

Pin 30: Hall sender depth

Pin 31: Hall sender height

Pin 32: Supply Hall sender depth

I may be wrong but as prevously said if on the Connector C32 pin 3 and pin 14 you have the correct low voltage output for LED without the "check-Lamp" every 30 sec. please connect there the new LED Turn signals too and they should work "like a charm".(Try disconnecting from the Connector B12)

http://naviservice.com.pl/?item=75&lang=en

headlamp connector

Hi there.

I have finally started fitting the LED headlamps.

Now I stumble accross the connector for the unit, where I need to switch a cable from pin 10 to 12, and add another. Is there an elegant way to open up this connector? I have found out how to clip it open and remove the pink part from the black outer part, but removing a pin is a bit more tricky, any help is very much appreciated

Problem solved, bought a 2pin tool to remove the quadlock pins, works great.

component protection

Hi again,

I have installed the new Led headlamps, work great.

I have not had any component protection removed by the audi dealer, but it seems to work fine, do I still need to do this? is there a reason to do it?

I don't really understand the component protection, and how it works.

Component protection is activated only if you change the 09-Central Electric Controller. I assume you did the modifications on yours and installed it back so there is no CP active. CP is activated only for new controllers or for ones previously installed in other cars.

Congrats on your facelift, we all are waiting for picture

I am trying to integrate the new J519 (part # 4Fo 910 @79 Q) into the 2010 facelift that i have done with the old j519.

1st:I have already done the new rewiring at the module, as fallowed.

on T32C connector:

PIN3 swap with PIN4

PIN14 swap with PIN15

T12 PIN9 --bridged-- T32C PIN 14

T12B PIN10 --briged-- T32C PIN3

2nd: when i used the old j519, at the headlight connector i moved pin#12 to pin#10 slot and ran the parking light wire (from the same side) up to the newly open pin#12 slot.

Right now im having many problems with turn signals. with the new j519, what needs to be done upfront at headlights.

thanks for any info on my problem child

With new J519 there is no other rewiring required at the headlights, you just need to remove the CP and code the unit.

The rewiring inside the controller is just to put the exterior mirrors turn signals to the same output as the front turn signals.

Are you sure you have the right unit? Which part no. you have?

what about the front turn signals in the bumper, just connect those to the old turn signal wires?

yes, only the front side light wire has to be moved up in the headlight, in the initial setup you had in the bumper side lights and turn signals, now you have just the turn signal and the side light is the LED inside the headlight housing, this LED at 50% is side light, and at 100% is DRL.

Old J519 had dedicated output to the exterior mirrors turn signal ,the new J519, uses the CAN bus network to trigger the turn signals in the mirrors, but they are actually powered by the door controllers in the driver's and passenger's door. Your door controllers can not power the turn signals in the mirrors so using the actual wiring you connect them inside the J519 to the output for the front turn signals in order to light up when this do.

Hope it clears your view on the matter.

alright, ive just went back and put every thing back the way it was and turn signals work fine but the headlight LED dont work and my mirror turns light up as if they where set to run like the headlight LEDs.

the new module j519 part # is 4F0 910 279 Q

right now im going to double check the wire work done at module. ill let you know what happens

I think you got the wrong diagram, there is one diagram for the old j519(original) and a different one for the new j519. In the old one, you connect the drl and the side light toggether, in the new onr, the side and drl are on different wires, and you just have to bridge the turn signals.

I am 100 % sure that you did the bridging from the old j519 to the new j519.

i swapped and bridged just like in the link posted

on T32C connector:

PIN3 swap with PIN4

PIN14 swap with PIN15

T12 PIN9 --bridged-- T32C PIN 14

T12B PIN10 --briged-- T32C PIN3

now the wire that i had ran up to head light, from side marker, dose it stay in the same place as before? (move pin #12 to #10 and place that wire in newly open slot)

this wire now sends a flashing signal when turn signals are used.

its not swap, its only bridge between this pins.

The wires in the headlight remains the same as with the old J519 unit.

on the headlights on pin12 you have to move the wire that initially went to the side light in the bumper.

the turn signal wire that was in the bumper, stays in the bumper.

6. make the coding on the J519 unit. your new coding has to be : 0015121;

Why 0015121?

What is the difference between the standards of countries? Can I leave 22?

Yes you can.

Here is the country variant specifications:

Country variant/daytime running lights-

01: Countries which prohibit daytime running lights

(PR no. 8BB/8BF/8BJ/8EC/8ED/8EH/8EJ+B19/B24/B28/B29/B36/B39/B40/B41/B46/B48/B49/B52/B54/

B60/B62/B68/B83/B84/B85/B86/B87/B88/B89/B90/B91)

01: Countries with separate daytime running lights solution, without daytime running lights

(PR no. 8BB/8BF/8BJ+B00/B01/B02/B03/B09/B10/B13/B14/B15/B16/B18/B21/B26/B27/B30/B31/

B32/B42/B43/B51/B59/B61/B64)

21: Countries with separate daytime running lights solution, selectable with daytime running lights

(PR no. 8EC/8ED/8EH/8EJ+B00/B01/B02/B03/B09/B10/B13/B14/B15/B16/B18/B21/B26/B27/

B30/B31/B32/B42/B43/B51/B59/B64/B79/B61)

02: Countries with enhanced daytime running lights solution, without daytime running lights

(PR no. 8BB/8BF/8BJ+B08/B17/B20/B22/B25/B33/B37/B50/B53/B56/B65/B67/B74/B75/B76)

12: Nordic countries/Baltic states/Croatia/Slovenia/Austria, not selectable with daytime running lights

(PR no. 8BB/8BF/8BJ+B04/B05/B06/B07/B11/B12/B44/B45/B70/B71/B72)

22: Nordic countries/Baltic states/Croatia/Slovenia/Austria, selectable with daytime running lights

(PR no. 8EC/8ED/8EH/8EJ+B04/B05/B06/B07/B11/B12/B44/B45/B70/B71/B72)

22Countries with enhanced daytime running lights solution, selectable with daytime running lights

(PR no. 8EC/8ED/8EH/8EJ+B08/B17/B20/B22/B25/B33/B37/B50/B53/B56/B65/B67/B74/B75/B76)

03: USA, without daytime running lights

(PR no. 8BB/8BF/8BJ+B34)

23: USA, selectable with daytime running lights

(PR no. 8EC/8ED/8EH/8EJ+B34)

14: Canada, not selectable with daytime running lights

(PR no. 8BB/8BF/8BJ/8EC/8ED/8EH/8EJ+B35)

If you don't change the bumper, there is no need to replace the two small grills where the fog lights are installed. Please tell me where are you from in order to give you the correct number plate version (USA/Europe/Japan/etc.).

The S-line Chrome grille is : 4L0 853 651 H T94

The V12 grille is : 4L0 853 651 D T94

Number plate holder ACC version for both the above is : 4L0 807 285 A T94 (European version)

All the above have color code T94 which is : GLOSSY BLACK.

There is a minor modification required for the bumper in order to fit the facelift grille or V12, you will have to trim part of the grille support, but it is very easy to figure it out when you will install it.

Thanks man for the information! I'm located In Estonia so the EU versions are correct for me! Aren't the S-line small grills glossy black too? That's why I planned to change them! As my originals are matte!

This is the list of parts I have or have ordered, can you please check what else do I need to get it all work perfectly:

4L0 941 613 A mounting

4L0 941 614 A mounting

4L0 941717 vent hose

4L0 941718 vent hose

4L0 945 093 G rear light

4L0 945 094 G rear light

4L0 910 289H rear lights conv. unit

4L0 953 041 D front LED

4L0 953 042 D front LED

4L0 919 173 light bar left front PR -QQ1

4L0 919 174 light bar right front

4L0 919 177 light bar left front

4L0 919 178 light bar right front

4E0 953 513 J 4PK switch

4L0941 003 AD complete used headlight

4L0941 004 AD complete used headlight

my VIN code is: WAUZZZ4L08D006730

can you please confirm that those headlights fit for my car, i'm not sure that do I have curvenlichts or not!

Can you also find me code for original black passengers carpet (not rubber) and is there a cargo area rubber carpet fot Q7?

I'm sorry for long list but I must say my dealer is not too helpful if not to say he is .....!

The 2 small grilles are only in matte color, there is no glossy black for those.

Regarding the list:

4L0 945 093 F - rear light (the G version is for North America and has RED blinker)

4L0 945 094 F - rear light (the G version is for North America and has RED blinker)

I would recommend the front leds E version if you have now the S-Line bumper, otherwise D are OK.

The part number for headlights is not valid anymore, it was replaced by several other part numbers. Indeed these are headlights for cornering light but you will have to check first if your car has cornering lights otherwise you will have an error on the instrument cluster and to make them work you will need also to change the Xenon Range Controller. To check if you have cornering lights now, use VCDS, go to Xenon Range Controller, click on ADvanced ID and look for Hardware Part No. If it starts with 8P you don't have cornering light, if it starts with 4F you have.

Be aware that the headlight requires also the xenon controller and the bulb, but if you buy them used probably are included.

The correct codes for headlights are:

4L0 941 029 AD and 4L0 941 030 AD - cornering light version

4L0 941 029 AC and 4L0 941 030 AC - standard version

Each headlight must have:

8K0 941 597 B - xenon controller

N 107 218 01 - xenon bulb

Also you will need the J519 Central Electric Controller (4F0 910 279 R) in order to have the front blinkers working correctly but there is also on this thread an option to use suppressors.

4L1 863 691 D VDV - black carpet foot mats front

4L0 864 450 9AM - black carpet foot mats rear

4L0 061 180 - luggage cover (rubber) 5 seats version

4L7 061 180 - luggage cover (rubber) 7 seats version

4L0 953 041 D and 4L0 953 042 D - standard

4L0 953 041 E and 4L0 953 042 E - s-line